The Lucky Cabin

June 28th, 2008

Grooming A Long-Haired Cat

Posted by admin in Pet + Animal Products

A longhaired cat ought to be groomed on a daily basis, this helps keep the coat tangle-free. Use a soft brush to groom the coat first. Work your way from your cats head to his tail brushing in the direction that the hair is laying. Gently brush his belly and tail. Then use a wide-toothed comb to gently comb through the hair.

If your cat has any knots or matted hair, gently ease the knot out with a comb or brush. Holding the knot in one hand whilst brushing with the other will prevent any pain to your cat from pulling on the coat. Longhaired, flatter-faced cat breeds need their eyes cleaned and dried weekly or even daily. Fluid cannot drain through the tear ducts properly and they are therefore prone to weeping.

If your cat starts getting fussy and giving you signs that she has had enough, you can groom the sides of her face. You can also give your cat the occasional treat.

If you think your cat may have fleas, you can end the grooming session with running a narrow-toothed comb through the coat. Grooming should not aggravate your cat, but be a pleasurable experience that can build trust and confidence. Start grooming sessions gradually with short sessions so your kitten or cat does not become bored. Never restrain your cat if they become stressed during a grooming session. Instead stop the session and try again later when they are more relaxed.

The result of grooming your cat whether it is a quick weekly brush or a daily intense grooming session is a happy cuddlesome cat. Your cat will look good and feel great.

Guide to Cats. Get information on buying, owning and caring for your cat, learn more about Cat Grooming.

Paul Hegarty is the owner of Learningfromdvds.com, Price compare Fitness DVDs, read reviews, download free E-books. Read this month’s e-book on “How To Spot A fraudulent Email”. Grab your free copy today.

June 18th, 2008

How to Win the War against Your Dogs Fleas

Posted by admin in Pet + Animal Products

All dogs pick up fleas, ticks, and chiggers at one time or another, usually during the warm weather months. Even a pampered city pet can pick up a stray flea from a potted plant. Hunting dogs often return home with a collection of chiggers or ticks. Fleas hop from one dog to another with amazing speed and agility. Your pet only needs to greet one flea infested friend in order to acquire the beginning of a flea colony of his own.

External parasites are not a special affliction of dogs. The dog is simply a convenient host for them. We would probably have them too, if our bodies were covered with hair and we ran around without shoes and clothing and sat or slept on the ground. Fleas are the most common, the easiest to detect and to get rid of. Fleas appear as black specks on a fine tooth comb, and a single one can drive a dog crazy.

The worst part of fleas is that they act as hosts to tapeworm larvae, and if your dog swallows one you may end up with a worm problem too. You can trap fleas in a silky smooth coat with a flea comb, but fleas that nestle in the dense undercoat of double coated dogs must be treated with a product that penetrates the skin, and a regular mild treatment is safer than an occasional severe one.

In one day a single flea can bite your pet 400 times, while consuming more than its own bodyweight in blood. Some dogs can contract flea allergy dermatitis, an allergic reaction to the flea’s saliva. The severity and length of the flea season varies depending on what part of the country you live in, but it is best to treat your pet in early spring, (April - May). In northern climates, flea and tick season usually lasts approximately 4 months, but in the extreme south, fleas can live all year long.

There are more than 2000 species of fleas in the United States alone, but the one that attacks most pets is the cat flea, Ctenocephalides Felis. A cat flea can lay up to one egg per hour, and within two days, a wormlike larvae will hatch from those eggs. The eggs are oval, smooth, and about 0.5mm in size. The hatched larvae will range from 1.5 to 5mm in length. The complete cycle from egg to adult takes approximately 30 to 75 days depending on temperature and humidity.

Adult fleas are about 1/16 to 1/8 inch long, are dark reddish brown, wingless, hard bodied, have three pairs of legs and are flattened from side to side. Fleas can jump vertically up to seven inches, and horizontally up to fourteen inches. They have piercing - sucking mouth parts and spines on their body. Adult fleas cannot survive or lay eggs without a blood meal, but may live from two months to one year without feeding.

In order to effectively control an infestation, fleas must be removed from the pet, the home, and the yard. Starting with the pet, there are shampoos, topical treatments, sprays, collars, and oral medications. The least recommended is shampoo, due to the grooming the pet does to his own coat. The pesticides can be toxic if they are consumed in quantity. Topical treatments are better, along with sprays and collars, but the best and most recommended is the oral medication Lufenuron called “Program” from your veterinarian.

To clean the home, all areas frequented by the dog should be cleaned thoroughly by vacuuming, washing bedding and rugs and possible treatment by insecticides. Treating your carpet with a Borate powder such as “Borax” laundry powder works as a poison upon ingestion by the flea, simply sprinkle the powder on your carpets and leave it for a few h ours before vacuuming will rid most homes of their fleas. A second treatment can follow if necessary. It’s cheap, you can do it yourself and there are no insecticides used.

To treat the lawn and around the homes exterior, pyrethroids such as “Archer” or “Nylan”, as well as fenoxy carb such as “Logic” or “Torus” can be effective. Outdoor treatment is usually only done in extreme or severe cases of flea infestation and may not be necessary. You should however keep your lawn trimmed to create a drier, less ideal environment for flea larvae. If you don’t want to handle the pesticides yourself, any licensed professional pest control operator can do the treatment for you.

In summary, you should check with your veterinarian before using any form of flea treatment. Never use products for dogs on a cat, as cats are more sensitive to the pesticide and they groom themselves more thoroughly. Never apply pesticides to young, pregnant, or sick animals, and use alternative methods to control fleas, such as combing frequently with a flea comb, vacuum your home frequently and dispose of the vacuum bag, wash all pet bedding regularly, and bathe your pet with a pesticide free shampoo. Prevention is much easier than dealing with an infestation.

Randy Jones and his partner Brent Jones have been in the pet industry for a long time. Recently they formed Joncopets.com. On the site, customers can read articles about anything pets as well as shop for the latest designer dog clothes, dog collars, dog beds and more for their best friend. Feel free to check out the site at www.joncopets.com

June 1st, 2008

Let’s Talk Ticks

Posted by admin in Pet + Animal Products

Let’s talk ticks. There are three things - OK, more than three thing - that I find
people won’t believe, even after you prove it to them:

1) Warming up your car on cold mornings is a waste of gas - just get in and drive,
staying under 35 mph for a mile or two;

2) Gas is gas - buying high octane gas is a waste of money unless your car is one of
the select few that specifically demands it; and

3) finding a tick on your dog does not signal the impending apocalypse.

I came by this last truth the hard way. Someone - i won’t say who, O.K. my
mother, brought me up to believe that a tick was nothing less than a miniature
Bradley Fighting Vehicle. Indestructable. Slain only by complete immersing in fire
or by driving a silver stake through its little heart.

I believed this until I pulled a tick off my dog one day, tossed her (it’s the
bloodthirsty females we worry about) on the desk and sliced and diced it with my x-
acto knife. Not that I would normally harm a fly, of course, but this was in the interest of science. In about 11 pieces, the tick didn’t seem likely to resume
foraging for a blood meal anytime soon.

This was the just first myth I would come to unravel about ticks.

I’ve already started at the end of a tick’s story so let’s work back from there
when you are out hiking with your dog.

TALL TICK TALE #1 - Removing Ticks From Your Dog (or yourself)

How many times have you heard that the proper method - the ONLY safe way
to remove ticks - is with tweezers. Smearing vaseline on the tick first is even better.
This is supposed to guarantee the tick’s head will not stay embedded in your dog.

Well, how many times do you have vaseline and tweezers at the ready when
you find a tick on your dog? The ONLY safe way to deal with a tick is to get it off as
quickly as possible. A tick (and we’re talking deer ticks, not the much more
common dog tick) cannot infect your dog with Lyme Disease until it is embedded for
some time (usually more than 24 hours). So don’t be shy about removing a tick
with your fingers. Get in there and get it out.

TALL TICK TALE #2 - Leave As Little Of Your Skin Exposed As Possible To Keep Ticks
Off You

It didn’t take many trips into the woods to realize that wearing long sleeves
and tucking long pants into socks to stave off ticks was just plain ridiculous. All
you do when you load up on clothes in the summer - besides sweat - is give your
tiny enemy a lifetime’s worth of hiding places.

When a tick hitches a ride on you or your dog it doesn’t settle in for a meal
immediately. It checks out the new digs by wandering around for awhile. Are you
more likely to detect a tick crawling on your bare leg or sneaking up your shirt
sleeve?

So you don’t need to dress like a beekeeper outdoors to detect ticks - just
check your skin and your dog regularly as you walk. Catching a tick at this time is
the easiest way to combat it.

TALL TICK TALE #3 - The Best Way To Avoid Ticks In The First Place Is To Stay Away
From Trees

What is it with irrational fears we harbor about our hair? Bats don’t fly into our
hair and ticks don’t lurk on tree limbs eyeing the tops of our heads like tycoons
checking out oceanfront property. Leave your tick-fighting hat at home.

Ticks spend most of their time clinging to wispy blades of long grass waiting
for a warm-blooded passerby to hitch a ride. The best place way to avoid ticks is to
keep your dog and yourself out in the middle of a trail as much as possible.

If you want to be outdoors, you aren’t going to avoid all ticks. But if you deal
with them a little more realistically, you don’t need to avoid the outdoors, either.

copyright 2006

I am the author of over 20 books, including 8 on hiking with your dog, including the
widely praised The Canine Hiker’s Bible. As publisher of Cruden Bay Books,
we produce the innovative A Bark In The Park series of canine hiking books found at
http://www.hikewithyourdog.com. During the warm months I lead canine hikes as tour
leader for hikewithyourdog.com tours, leading packs of dogs and humans on day
and overnight trips. My lead dog is Katie, a German Shepherd-Border Collie mix,
who has hiked in all of the Lower 48 states and is on a quest to swim in all the great
waters of North America - http://web.mac.com/crudbay/iWeb/Katies%20Blog/
Katies%20Quest.html. I am currently building a hikewithyourdog.com tours trailer
to use on our expeditions and its progress can be viewed at http://web.mac.com/crudbay/iWeb/Teardrop%20Trailer/Building%20A%20Tour%20Trailer.html.

April 18th, 2008

Choosing a Ferret

Posted by admin in Pet + Animal Products

Where should I get my ferret?

Many pet stores today sell ferrets. As with any pet purchased from a pet store, there can be problems you are not told about with your fuzzy in order to make a sale. We should point out this is not always the case. While there is certainly nothing wrong with purchasing a ferret from a local pet store, we feel that doing a little research first will reward you with the fuzzy that is right for you. Look into local breeders of ferrets. Many of these ferret breeders will have interaction with their kits from day one, which can lead to a better socialized ferret for you. Also, you can contact local ferret groups or forums to see what breeders in your area are reputable.

Look into getting a ferret from a local shelter. Shelter ferrets are usually a little older than kits from a pet store or breeder, but the adoption cost (around $50-$100) which is cheaper than the purchase of a kit (around $150). A shelter worker will know the full details of each ferret’s personality, and shelter ferrets are more likely to be litter-box trained and nip-trained. As we said earlier, there are so many ferrets out there that need good homes, and adopting a lonely shelter animal can be much more rewarding than training a baby ferret.

Do I want a Kit (Baby) or an Adult/Juvenile Ferret?

Purchasing a Kit has both it’s rewards and training problems. Kits, along with being adorable will provide any ferret owner with a few challenges. The two most important challenges would be litter training and nip training. Like any young pet, you will have to spend time training. Make sure you provide support and show patience, as these times can be challenging. Purchasing an Adult or Juvenile ferret should help to avoid the latter, however this is not always the case. Be sure to spend some additional time with any candidate(s) prior to bringing them home, because bad habits can be hard to break. Also, keep in mind that ferrets generally live between 5-10 years, by purchasing an older ferret, be sure to know their age to further help you determine which fuzzy is right for you.

Do I want a male or female ferret?

In regards to a ferrets sex, there are generally little to no differences between the two in regards to your ferrets personality. Usually ferrets are neutered prior to being placed, however it never hurts to ask, as non-neutered males can be more aggressive. What ferret, whether male or female really comes down to size. Males tend to be about twice the size of female ferrets. Females typically weigh in between 1-1.5-lbs., so expect your male to weigh in between 2-3lbs.!

Is there anything else I should look for?

When purchasing a new ferret check for clear eyes, a healthy coat, strong whiskers and teeth, and an alert and inquisitive nature. If you are looking at Kits, it may be some more time before their true personalities form (approx. 8-10 weeks), however if you find yourself snuggling up to them easily, most likely you will have a laid back ferret. The same can be said should you pick up a wiggle-worm, which will most likely become a joyful terror when they mature.

Matthew Humphries - http://www.ferret.com

April 14th, 2008

A Look at Discount Dog Beds

Posted by admin in Pet + Animal Products

Many people want to make sure their family pet has just the right bed, but might not be willing to pay the price. It’s actually more difficult to find designer and luxury dog beds especially for oversized pets than it is to find discount dog beds for average sized animals.

If you’re not too fussy about the design of the fabrics being used in the bed; if your dog is of average size and weight; and if her sleeping habits are not too extreme in the curling up or stretching out situations; you can probably save a lot of money when you purchase a dog bed that’s right for her.


To begin with, a lot of the more expensive bed-makers change their designs just like clothing designers do for people, if not quite as often. The changes do result in closeouts and discontinued items being drastically marked down at pet shops across the country and on the Internet. Then there are the many pet supermarkets and discount retailers who carry a variety of comfortable beds, in a variety of colors at prices much reduced from the luxury beds available at upscale pet shops.


Then there is always the option to go ahead and make your own dog bed. If you’ve got any sewing ability at all, (and for the most part, a dog bed is more about being comfortable and durable than about looking great) you can produce an average-sized, comfortable, washable dog bed for just a few dollars worth of fabric and filler material. Cut a couple of pieces of fabric - it can be from an old sheet, a shower curtain, or a nice comfy old bathrobe - and sew them together to make a pillow of the right size. Stuff it with filler material and you have a comfy, simple dog bed. You may also create a fancier dog bed with an upper ring by cutting a long rectangle of fabric and creating a tubular pillow to go around the edge. Then fasten the upper ring to the original base with hand stitching.


You have just created a comfortable, washable bed for your dog made with love by your own two hands using a piece of fabric you’d probably throw away, some kind of filler material and a little bit of your precious time. What better way to save money and take care of your loving pet at the same time? You’ll enjoy the process of making the bed just as much as your pet will enjoy sleeping in it.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

Dog Beds provides detailed information about small and large dog beds, as well as designer, orthopedic, and discount dog beds. For more information go to http://www.e-dogbeds.com and/or visit its sister site at http://www.e-birdcages.com for related information.

April 12th, 2008

Toy Poodle, About the Breed

Posted by admin in Pet + Animal Products

A toy poodle is a type of dog, one that is small, lively and that will become part of the family when welcomed into your home. The toy poodle is one that can be black, white or brown, and true toy poodles are not going to be multi colored or mixed breeds. The hair on the toy poodle is one that is curly, very curly and often times shaved over the body to keep the hair from becoming messy. This is a dog that has long and floppy ears, sometimes they look a little too long for the small head that this dog has. Many toy poodles are bred for show, and with the right help can win all types of awards and prizes for their owners.

The toy poodle is one that is known for being smart, and intelligent. They are highly responsive to their owners, listening to commands, and listening to demands. The toy poodle that is neglected will seek out love and companionship of another dog, another person, or another person with more authority in the home. Giving this type of dog a lot of attention and interaction with children while they are puppies will help groom the dog for a family life that will be happy and social with the entire family.

The toy poodle that you don’t take a lot of time to train when it is a puppy will bark more often. The toy poodle that is trained only to bark at strangers will do well when you have company and when you are in the house and someone comes to the door. The puppy given interaction with children will learn not to bark or bite children and will play along with the ball, play fetch, and go for nice long walks.

The toy poodle does get its name for being such a small looking almost fake looking dog. The dog will grow to be about ten inches high and will weight no more than ten pounds. For a dog, that is small. For a dog, that grows to be just about ten inches high, it is important for it to be groomed well, and to keep its hair cut, because mud, puddles, and rain can cause knots and mess in the hair if not properly cared for.

The toy poodle is one that can be found bred to be pure or mixed with other types of dogs and even other types of poodles. The curly hair of the poodle can be long when it is mixed with a longhaired dog, just as it can grow to be taller if it is bred with a dog that is a little taller than the small poodle known as the toy poodle.

If you are searching for a pure bred poodle, look for papers that will come from the American kennel club that will give you the full history and ancestry of the puppy you are about to purchase.

Copyright 2006 - Agust Hauksson. Agust is a regular contributor of articles to many online publications. Find more great information at: http://www.toy-poodle.info/ and http://www.dogboarding-guide.com/